From easy river strolls to challenging hilly hikes, from accessible by tube walks to longer journeys on the train, from tucked-away villages to growing commuters towns; there is a walk for everyone in the Chilterns. With 9 self-guided walks and 8 free GPS maps available to download, discover the best walks in the Chilterns, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
At A Glance
In a hurry? Not a problem. Here is a list of the best walks in the Chilterns sorted by difficulty and distance. I go into more detail about each one of these walks in this post.
| Distance | Ascent | Walking time | Difficulty | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bourne End | 7.61 miles (12.24 km) | 445 feet (135 m) | 2’45 hours | Easy |
| Henley | 10.5 miles (17km) | 787 feet (240 m) | 4 hours | Easy |
| Chess Valley | 11.7 miles (18.8 km) | 479 feet (146 m) | 4’10 hours | Intermediate |
| Amersham | 11.5 miles (18.5 km) | 597 feet (182 m) | 4’45 hours | Intermediate |
| Chesham | 14 miles (22.5 km) | 865 feet (263 m) | 5 hours | Intermediate |
| Goring & Streatley | 12.06 miles (19.40km) | 1476 feet (450 m) | 5’45 hours | Intermediate |
| Marlow | 15.76 miles (25.36km) | 1438 feet (438 m) | 6 hours | Intermediate |
| Wendover | 17 miles (27km) | 1509 feet (460 m) | 7’45 hours | Challenging |
| Berkhamstead | 23.93 miles (38.5 km) | 2077 feet (633 m) | 9’45 hours | Challenging |
What are the Chilterns?
The Chilterns are a chalk escarpment covering 364 square miles (943 square km) across Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Hertfordshire and Bedfordshire. It was designated an Area of Natural Outstanding Beauty in 1965, along with 37 other sites in the UK. It is composed of 12 hills, the tallest one being Bald Hill, with its highest point being 257 m above sea level.
Historically, the Chilterns were settled during the Bronze Age. You can still see heritage and proof of human activity in the area for forts during the Iron Age, Churches from the Middle Ages, sawpits from the eighteenth century and military activity in the twentieth century.
The hills are used for farmland, outdoor activities and telecommunication purpose. The National Trust has acquired some of the lands with the mission to protect and preserve the sites.
Best Walks in the Chilterns
Let’s start our rundown of the best walks in the Chilterns, sorted by difficulty and distance.
1 – Bourne End Circular via Marlow Walk
Let’s start with an easy loop from and to Bourne End passing by Marlow. With a start walking up a very gentle hill and walking through the forest, you then cross over the River Thames at the Marlow Bridge. You can take your time and roam around Marlow’s town centre or even stop for a meal before heading back to Bourne End following the Thames Path. Between hills, a forest and the river, this walk offers different sceneries for a perfect afternoon walk!
Logistic
- Distance: 7.61 miles (12.24 km)
- Ascent: 445 feet (135 m)
- Difficulty: Easy
- Walking estimate: 2 hours and 45 minutes
- How to get there: There are no direct trains from London. You would have to get a train from Paddington Station to Maidenhead Station and change in Maidenhead for a train to Marlow
- What to bring: Comfortable clothing, if the weather is nice and the path is dry, a pair of trainers will suffice, nonetheless, if it has been raining during the week, the path can get muddy so you would need a pair of walking shoes, snack, water (1 litre is sufficient for a short walk like this one)
- Additional Information: There are no public toilets on this walk
2 – Henley Circular Walk
We continue our tour of the best walks in the Chilterns and this time we are heading to Henley-on-Thames, the home of the Royal Regatta. Starting in the lovely market town of Henley, this walks takes you from the banks of the River Thames to villages and ends with a forest walk. A variety of landscapes for a full-on walk! And don’t forget to stop for a meal in Henley before heading back to London.
Logistic
- Distance: 10.5 miles (17km)
- Ascent: 240 m
- Walking estimate: 3 hours and a half to 4 hours
- Difficulty: Easy
- How to get there: Train from Paddington Station to Twyford and change at Twyford for a train to Henley-on-Thames. The journey takes around an hour, depending on the waiting time at Twyford Station
- What to pack: Comfortable clothing and footwear – I would recommend waterproof hiking boots as the trail is mainly on the river path so it can get extremely muddy depending on the weather or alternatively pack a pair of gaiters with you, water (2 litres recommended)
- Additional Information: There are no public toilets on this walk
3 – Chess Valley Walk
If you like a nice river walk, then this is THE walk you need to do. This very popular and high rated route from Rickmansworth to Chesham following the River Chess is a must-do. Accessible by tube and by train, it is easy to get to. Just follow the trail thanks to the signage but whilst it does not require any previous hiking experience, you need to be mindful that you are walking on wetlands so you need to wear appropriate waterproof footwear. Discover the beauty of the Chess Vale and its wildlife and villages along the way for an amazing day out in the countryside!
Logistic
- Distance: 11.7 miles (18.8 km)
- Ascent : 479 feet (146 m)
- Walking Estimate : 4 hours and 10 minutes
- Difficulty : Intermediate due to the distance and some muddy part as you are walking on wetlands. Apart from this, the route is waymarked and flat.
- How to get there: Metropolitan Line or Chilternrailways trains for Marylebone to Ricksmanworth. The journey takes 30 minutes by train. Ricksmanworth is in fare zone 7 so you don’t need to buy train tickets and you can travel with your Oyester card or contactless card
- What to bring with you: Comfortable clothing and footwear. It is a river walk so you are walking on wetlands. Remember to take a pair of waterproof hiking boots and a pair of gaiters with you. We saw people wearing trainers slipping on the muddy terrain and even had to go help one to cross a difficult muddy section of the path. Bring sunglasses, headcover and sunscreen as the path is exposed. Bring a backpack with packed lcunh, snacks, water (2L recommended), identification and money for the restaurant at the end.
- Additional Information: There are no public toilets available on this walk
4 – Amersham Circular Walk
Another walk accessible by tube with the Metropolitan line, the Amersham circular walk is the opportunity to step into the countryside fields without leaving London. Following the Heritage trail, this walk goes through endless green fields, and mysterious woods before ending with an easy stroll by the River Missbourne. With a pub stop at the end, pack your bag, lace up your boots and jump on the tube! Who would have thought it could be so easy?
Logistic
- Distance: 11.5 miles (18.5 km)
- Ascent: 597 feet (182 m)
- Walking Estimate: 4 hours and 45 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- How to get there: Metropolitan line to Amersham or Chilterns Railway train from Marylebone. Amersham is in fare zone 9 so you don’t need to buy train tickets and can use your Oyster or contactless card to travel.
- What to bring: Comfortable clothing and footwear, gaiters if it has been raining the days before, rain gear (I forgot mine and it started raining halfway through so I thought I’ll put a reminder) if you are going on a rainy day, headcover, sunglasses and sunscreen if you are going on a sunny day, backpack with at least 2L of water, lunch, snack, identification and money for the restaurant at the end
- Additional Information: There are no public toilets on this walk
5 – Chesham Circular Walk
Another walk via Chesham but this time we are heading north in the Chesham Vale. Starting in the pretty market town of Chesham, you then walk across a park onto the golden straw fields. Passing by well-preserved hamlets, you then get to farmlands with sheep and ponies, before entering a forested area and back to the town. Stay a bit longer in Chesham thanks to my restaurant recommendation before heading back to London!
Logistic
- Distance: 14 miles (22.5 km)
- Ascent: 865 feet (263 m)
- Walking Estimate: 5 hours
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- How to get there: Metropolitan Line to Chesham, zone 9. You can access it using an Oyster card or contactless. Please note you can have a fast and “calling at all stations” train to Chesham, so please check before travelling.
- What to bring with you: Comfortable clothing and footwear, water (2L recommended), snack, lunch, the gaiter if it has been raining the days before, head cover, sunscreen and sunglasses if the weather is nice as you will be in the open most of the walk, identification, money for the public transport and the restaurant at the end (keep reading until the end, you are in for a surprise for the restaurant)
- Additional Information: There are no public toilets on this walk
6 – Goring and Streatley Circular Walk
Let’s change from Buckhamshire’s walks and discover a different part of the Chilterns. Two villages separated by the River Thames, one in Oxfordshire and the other one in Berkshire, you think I am joking? Well no. Welcome to Goring and Streatley, tucked away villages surrounded by hills, perfect for hikers looking for something a bit more challenging. Starting with a hill, you then walk along a ridge before reaching a hamlet. After a walk through a forested area, you then get to a final hill offering a breathtaking view over the villages at the bottom. Hillwalking aficionados, Goring and Streatley are waiting for you!
Logistic
- Distance: 12.06 miles (19.40km)
- Ascent: 450m
- Walking estimate: 5 hours 45 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- How to get there: Trains from Paddington, direct to Goring and Streatley. It takes 1.15 hour.
- What to pack: Comfortable clothing, comfortable footwear as you will be climbing hills, sunglasses and sunscreen if you are going on a nice day, water (2 litres recommended, snack and packed lunch)
- Additional information: There are no public toilets on this walk. I would strongly recommend that you stop at the public toilets in Goring before starting the hike
Map
7 – Marlow Circular via High Wycombe Walk
As we go through the list of the best walks in the Chilterns, the hikes get more and more difficult. And the Marlow circular is one of them. With lots of ascent and descent, endless lush green fields, woodlands and farmland, you truly deserve your Sunday roast in a local pub if you can make it to the end! Are you ready for the challenge?
Logistic
- Distance: 15.76 miles (25.36km)
- Ascent: 1438 feet (438 m)
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Walking estimate: 5 hours and a half to 6 hours depending on pace
- How to get there: There are no direct trains from London to Marlow. You would have to get a train from Paddington Station to Maidenhead Station and change in Maidenhead for a train to Marlow
- What to bring: comfortable clothing and shoes as you will be climbing hills, snack, packed lunch, water (2 litres recommended)
- Additional information: There are no toilets on this walk
8 – Wendover Circular Walk
If you are looking for a long-distance walk in the Chilterns, this is the walk you need. Endless lush green fields, woodland and sheep roaming free are just a teaser of the Wendover circular walk. With some hills along the way, the real challenge remains the distance with 27 km to get through. Do you want to add some difficulty? Go on a rainy day! There is nothing better than giving your waterproof gear a real-life test!
Logistic
- Distance: 17 miles (27km)
- Ascent: 460 m
- Walking estimate: 7 hours and 45 minutes
- Difficulty: Challenging
- How to get there: Trains from Marylebone Station. The journey takes 50 minutes. As it is a circular walk, you can book an anytime day return ticket.
- What to pack: Comfortable clothing and footwear, gaiter and waterproof gear if raining. Headcover, sunscreen and sunglasses if you are going on a bright day as the path is exposed. Bagpack with water (2 litres recommended), identification and money.
9 – Berkamstead Circular Walk
We end our rundown of the best walks in the Chilterns with the Berkamstead circular via Ivinghoe Beacon. Starting with the ruins of a medieval castle, you soon enter woodlands carpeted with bluebells. Follow the route across green fields and farmlands before reaching the magical Combe Woods, a fairy-tale-like forest. You then take on the challenge to walk up the Ivinghoe Beacon before going down towards the Regent’s Canal to end the walk. Long-distance and ascent, the perfect mix for a challenging hike. Will you dare?
Logistic
- Distance: 23.93 miles (38.5 km)
- Ascent: 633m
- Walking estimate: 9 hours and 40 minutes at the average speed of 2.48 miles/hour (4km/hour)
- Difficulty: Challenging
- How do to get there: Direct trains from Euston Station. The journey takes 30 minutes. However, the train tickets can be a bit expensive and you need to count around £20.00 for an off-peak day return ticket. This is why, if you live towards North/West London I would advise that you take the direct train from Harrow & Wealdstone Station. The journey takes 20 minutes and it would cost you half the price (£10.30 for an off-peak day return at the time of writing this article)
- What to bring with you: Comfortable clothes and footwear as you will be climbing hills, waterproof jacket and overtrousers as the majority of the walk is on open lands so you will be exposed to rain and wind if you are going on a bad weather day, headcover and gloves as it is really windy at the top of the Ivinghoe Beacon Hill, snack, packed lunch, water (2 litres recommended). I would likewise advise that you carry gaiters with you if it has been raining during the week as the path could get muddy
Final Thoughts on the Best Walks in the Chilterns
With 9 day walks in the Chilterns, you will be busy for a little while. But if you were looking to extend your stay and spend the weekend in the Chilterns, here is a suggestion for you.
Hammock Camping and Bushcraft in Princes Risborough
- Where: Alex UK Bushcraft, Speen, Princes Risborough HP27 0RT
- How to get there:
- By direct train from Marylebone to Princes Risborough and then a cab to the campsite
- By car. There is a car park at the entrance of the campsite
- What to bring for the weekend:
- A backpack (40L minimum recommended)
- A sleeping bag (warm, very warm)
- Beanie for sleeping and when around the campfire
- Plate, bowl, mug and cutlery
- Some snacks (lunch, diner and breakfast are inclusive but you might want to bring some extra)
- Headlamp
- Warm and comfortable clothing
- Thermals if not for the day under your hiking outfit at least for the night
- Comfortable and waterproof pair of shoes
- Last but not least … alcohol!
- Additional Information: There is no running water but freshwater is available in jerry cans and there are composting toilets on site with toilet paper and hand sanitiser.
And you, what is your favourite walk in the Chilterns? Let me know in the comment below.
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