Hill Walks

Embarking on a journey through the picturesque Chiltern Hills, the walk from Wendover to Princes Risborough offers an enchanting blend of natural beauty and historical intrigue. Spanning 7.4 miles, this intermediate trek ascends through forested areas and open landscapes, presenting a narrative that weaves through time—from Bronze Age settlers to the legacy of the Black Prince. Along the way, the path reveals the charm of the English countryside, punctuated by the highest points of the Chilterns and the solemnity of the Boer War Monument.

Let’s go to the Chilterns for a walk following a section of the Ridgeway National Trail. This section is a quintessential blend of the English countryside’s charm, history, and physical challenge, ideal for those shorter winter days when the crisp air and clear skies call for exploration.

Logistics of the Ridgeway Walk

Map of the Ridgeway Walk

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Highlights of the Ridgeway Walk

Wendover to Princes Risborough Walk

So now we covered the basics, let’s get to the walk.

The Ridgeway

Our journey today takes us along the Ridgeway National Trail from Wendover to Princes Risborough. Stretching over 87 miles (139 km), the trail begins at Overton Hill in Wiltshire and concludes at the Ashridge Estate in Hertfordshire, segmented into six manageable day sections.

En route, we traverse the rolling chalk downlands of the North Wessex Downs, rich with archaeological sites, before reaching the wooded Chiltern Hills and their quaint villages. Today, we walk a captivating section within the Chilterns, designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).

Bacombe Hill

Starting at Wendover Station, a brief stroll up Station Approach and a right turn onto Pound Street quickly lead us to the Bacombe Hill Nature Reserve.

Historically a haven for wildflowers and diverse wildlife, these chalk hills once offered the perfect habitat for Bronze Age settlers. Unfortunately, the 20th century saw a decline in livestock farming, leading to unchecked growth of coarse grasses and shrubs, threatening native grassland wildlife. Efforts are now underway to restore this balance, with grazing cattle and strategic tree coppicing helping to rejuvenate the land and allow wildflowers to flourish once more.

The gentle ascent to Bacombe Hill’s summit reveals breathtaking vistas, undiminished by its modest incline.

Coombe Hill

Our path next ascends to Coombe Hill, the highest point in the Chilterns, soaring to 850 feet (260 m) above sea level. The presence of a memorial monument marks your arrival; erected in 1904, it honours the 148 Buckinghamshire men who fell during the Second Boer War.

Despite suffering destruction by lightning in 1938 and again in the early ’90s, the monument now includes conductors to avert further damage.

On days when the sky is clear—unlike during my visit—the panoramic views of Aylesbury Vale below are spectacular. Once part of the Chequers Estate, Coombe Hill was sold to the National Trust following WWI.

The Chequers

Descending from Coombe Hill, we enter Linton Wood, continuing to Goodmerhill Wood, and then onto a field by following the Ridgeway trail. After crossing the field and a road, we approach Chequers, the Prime Minister’s countryside residence.

The origins of its name are debated—some attribute it to a former owner, others to the estate’s chequer trees. It was constructed in the 16th century by William Hawtrey the custodian of Lady Mary Grey, the younger sister of the Nine-Day Queen, Lady Jane Grey, who resided at Bradgate Manor.

The estate has passed through numerous hands before the Lee family bequeathed it to the nation post-WWI as a prime ministerial retreat.

Enter the woods on the other side of the road where the walk along the forest’s edge offers a fleeting view of this historic residence.

Rifle Range Nature Reserve

Proceeding on the Ridgeway, we encounter the Rifle Range Nature Reserve.

The name, perhaps unexpected for a nature reserve, stems from its past life as a practice range for the British Armed Forces from WWII until the late 1970s. With military use ceased, the area now serves as grazing land for sheep and cattle, supporting a habitat rich in butterflies and diverse plant life.

Whiteleaf Hill

The journey towards Whiteleaf Hill is momentarily paused at The Plough Inn—a welcome reprieve for a coffee break before tackling the hill.

Refreshed, we ascend to Whiteleaf Hill, famous for its chalk cross and sheep-grazed grasslands. The origin and purpose of the cross, first recorded in 1742, remain a mystery.

The summit offers another rewarding view before we begin our descent towards Peters Lane.

Brush Hill

Crossing Peters Lane, we face the final climb to Brush Hill, a Local Nature Reserve established in 1997 on what was once farmland abandoned after WWI. Today, it’s a successful conservation site, where chalkland serves as an ideal habitat for a flourishing butterfly population.

Princes Risborough

The concluding leg of our walk brings us to Princes Risborough, a market town nestled in the Chiltern Hills of Buckinghamshire.

With a rich history dating back to the Bronze Age, the town was significantly influenced by the Black Prince, Edward of Woodstock, in the 14th century. In the fourteenth century, he was granted the town’s manor, adjacent to where St Mary’s Church, built 200 years later, now stands. His tenure significantly impacted the town, symbolizing a period of royal favour and prosperity.

The town’s evolution from a rural village to a vibrant community reflects its strategic importance and its role in local trade and agriculture, making it a fascinating blend of tradition and modernity.

Our trail follows the town’s outskirts, missing the Church and the remains of the Black Prince’s palace. As you reach the end of Upper Icknield Way, turn right onto Wycombe Road and continue straight until you reach Station Road.

Happy Discovery!

Final Thoughts on the Ridgeway Walk

In wrapping up the Wendover to Princes Risborough walk, it’s clear that this journey offers more than just physical exercise. It invites you to traverse a route filled with historical significance and natural beauty. The transition from the ancient landscapes of the Chiltern Hills to the historically rich town of Princes Risborough encapsulates a unique blend of England’s natural and cultural heritage.

And you, what is your favourite walk in the Chilterns? Let me know in the comment section below.

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