Get away from it all by taking a journey through time on the Purbeck Ridgeway walk. This spectacularly scenic trail spans several miles across the Ballard Down in Dorset, offering stunning views across the countryside. As you take in the sights, you’ll also have the chance to discover the area’s rich history with landmarks such as the Corfe Castle and the Obelisk. So grab your walking boots, pack your snacks, and let’s take a journey along one of England’s finest trails.
Dorset is a destination on my mind for hiking, but it can be challenging to get to via public transport. This is why I made the most of some of the hiking groups in London using their mode of transportation to explore more underrated paths, which I can then bring to you. Follow me up and down the rolling hills of the Dorset countryside for this walk near Corfe Castle.
Statistics of the Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
- Distance: 12 miles (19.3 km)
- Total Ascent: 1640 ft (500 m)
- Highest Point: 636 ft (194 m)
- Lowest Point: 43 ft (13 m)
- Walking Estimate: 5 hours and 30 minutes
- Difficulty: Intermediate
Logistics of the Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
How to get there:
- Train from London Waterloo to Wareham, Dorset. There are no direct trains so you would need to change in Bournemouth.
- From Wareham Station, take bus 40 towards Swanage and alight at Corfe Castle
- By car from London, it takes approximately 3 hours to Corfe Castle. The Castle has a car park and it is a National Trust site, so the car park is free for members.
For the return:
- If you walk to Swanage, you can take the Steam Train to Corfe Castle. It runs only during the summer months, 5 times per day. Check their website for more information
- Alternatively, you can take bus 30 from Swanage to Weymouth and alight at Corfe Castle
- You can also walk back to Corfe Castle via the same route – which is what we are doing in this walk. From Corfe Castle, take bus 40 to Wareham and train back to London Waterloo
What to Pack
- Comfortable clothing and footwear. There are steep descents so make sure you wear hiking shoes or boots with a good grip
- A backpack with water, snacks and a packed lunch
- Headcover, sunscreen and sunglasses if the weather is excellent as the path is uncovered
- Rain gear if rain is forecasted for the same reason as above
- Hiking poles are recommended
Additional Information:
- There are toilets available at the Corfe Castle Visitor Centre and Tea Room
- This is not a stile-free walk
- This is a dog-friendly walk, however, the stile at the start of the trail does not have a dog gate. All the other stiles on this walk are suitable for dogs
- This walk is not suitable for pushchair and wheelchair users
Where to Eat
- Corfe Castle Tea Room, Corfe Castle, Dorset
- The Greyhound Inn, Corfe Castle, Dorset
Highlights of the Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
- Corfe Castle
- The Purbeck Way Trail
- Steam Train
- East Hill
- Ballard Down Hill
- The Obelisk
- The Coast
The Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
So now we covered the basics, let’s get to the walk!
Corfe Castle
We start our walk at Corfe Castle, or more precisely the ruins of Corfe Castle. Let’s look back at the history of the place.
Built on the order of William the Conqueror during the Norman Conquests, it is believed there was a Saxon Castle at the same location before. Corfe represented a strategic location for William and he had a motte (man-made mount) constructed and the Castle erected on top of it. It then passed on to his son, King Henry I, who had the dungeon built to the impressive height of 21 m on top of the 55 m tall mount.
King John I, grandson of King Henry I, turned Corfe Castle into a luxury dwelling. He also kept political prisoners in the dungeon, called “oubliette“, a French word meaning “a place where we forget people“. In 1215, a year before his passing, King John I was compelled to sign the Magna Carta near Runnymede.
The Castle went through many different proprietors until it was bought by its first private owner, Sir Christopher Hatton, in 1572. Childless, the ownership of the Castle passed onto his nephew, William Newport, after his death.
The Castle met its fate during the Civil War. In the hand of the Bankes Family, supporting King Charles I, the castle was assieged by the parliamentarians. After they were victorious, they demolished the Castle using gunpowder, which explains the wide gaps and sharp angles on the stone that you can see nowadays.
The Castle was donated to the National Trust by a descendant of the Bankes family, Ralph Bankes, in 1982.
The Purbeck Way
The Purbeck Way is a 25-mile (40 km) hiking trail from Lulworth Cove to Ballard Point on the coastline in the north of Swanage Bay. The route’s name comes from the Purbeck peninsula, also known as the Isle of Purbeck, even though it is not an island. The sixty-square mile (155 square km) of land is surrounded by water on 3 sides: the English Channel on two and the River Frome on the last one.
Today we are walking a leg of the Purbeck Way, from Corfe Castle to Ballar Point, known as the Purbeck Ridgeway. Let’s go!
We start our walk on Sandy Hill Lane. Just after the railway bridge, you find a staircase on your left. Walk over the stile at the bottom of the stairs (this one does not have a dog gate) and start your walk up East Hill (103 m above sea level).
On your way, you can take a glimpse at the Corfe Castle on your left but the best view is yet to come. When you reach the top you have a clear view over the castle, perfect to take excellent and memorable pictures.
From above you can see the train station below, and if you time it perfectly you will see the steam train passing at the bottom of the castle’s mount.
The Obelisk
Turn your back to the Corfe Castle to walk in the direction of the coastline. You pass through a field with sheep grazing and resting, giving you that look that you are disturbing their peace.
Take a stroll alongside the ridge taking on the beauty of the surrounding scenery of green rolling hills. Then, you arrive at Godlingston Hill (198m above sea level) and start your descent. The start of the way downhill is a bit steep but then it gets easier as you go down.
Once at the bottom, walk across Ullwell Road and continue your way through the Purbeck Ridgeway up the hill in front of you. You find stairs to help you through the climb as you gain 100 m elevation in 0.6 km.
At the top, you are greeted by an obelisk. What a strange sight in such a remote location! The Obelisk used to be in London, standing in front of the Nativity Church near Bank Station. It was moved to its present location in 1893 by the founding father of Swanage, George Burt, to commemorate the installation of water supply in Swanage.
In 1941, during the Second World War, the Obelisk was taken down because of fear it could be used as a landmark for the enemy’s aircraft. It was re-erected in 1952.
The Coast
After you walk past the Obelisk you need to continue climbing a little bit before reaching a more levelled route along the Ballard Down. You can see the bay with farmland on your left and Swanage on your right.
You go through another meadow with sheep grazing and running away from you.
Continue until you reach the edge of the cliff.
From there, you have a couple of options:
- Turn around and walk back to Corfe Castle along the Purbeck Ridgeway but this time you can opt for an easier route and follow the path downhill. You can download the map of this walk at the end of this article.
- Turn left and continue walking along the coastline. You reach the Old Harry Rocks and then you can follow the trail leading to Sudland Bay. There is no train station in Studland Bay so you would need to take bus 50 to Bournemouth Station to catch a train back to London.
- Turn right and follow the coastline to Swanage. Take bus 50 to Bournemouth Station and then a train back to London.
For the purpose of this article, we take option 1 and walk back to Corfe Castle via the downhill path. Once back where we started, why not end the walk at a local pub? Head towards the Greyhound Inn for a refreshing drink in their nicely decorated beer garden.
Happy discovery!
Map of the Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
Do you want to do this walk? Download the GPS map for free by clicking on the button below. Learn how to upload the file onto your navigation by following my step-by-step guide.
Final Thoughts on the Purbeck Ridgeway Walk
In 1995, American journalist and author, Bill Bryson, published Notes from a Small Island – a Journey through Britain. In his book, he depicts his journey through the country and what makes Britain. About Dorset, he wrote:
For miles around, the Dorset hills rolled and billowed, like a shaken-out blanket settling on to a bed.
Bill Bryson
Well, Bill Bryson was right about Dorset. So come and see it for yourself! And you, what is your favourite walk in Dorset? Let me know in the comments below.
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