Berkhamsted Circular Walk: Between Hills and Canal

Searching for a challenging and picturesque walk near Berkhamsted? From steep hills, lush green fields, woodlands and an undulating canal, this Berkhamsted circular walk has it all.

I did this walk as part of my training for a 42km hike marathon, and it was by a long shot the most challenging hike I had ever done then, due to both the distance and the ascent. To add to the difficulty, it was coming down and windy on that day.

Ready for a challenge?

Logistics for the Berkhamsted Circular Walk

Highlights of the Berkhamsted Circular Walk

The Berkhamsted Circular Walk

Berkhamsted to Great Gaddesden

We start our walk in the ancient market town of Berkhamsted, situated in the Chiltern Hills, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Presently a commuter town, Berkhamstead was first stelled 5000 years ago as indicated by the antiques found in the valley. It became a notable town during the Norman Conquest because of its ideal location on a prime route between London and the Midlands. Willam the Conqueror strategically based its military camp in Berkhamsted and requested for his castle to be built here.

As we come out of the station, we come face to face with the remains of the said castle, which is one of the oldest in England. We start the climb of Berkhamsted Hill, overlooking the town. At the top, we stop to appreciate the view despite the fog enveloping the city.

We start our descent towards Gutteridge Wood, where the ground is carpeted in bluebells. As we proceed with our walk, we are halted by a calf who escaped from the animal pen and was lying in the middle of the public footpath, determined not to move. We look for the number for the farm online and give them a call. Someone eventually come to help and get the calf back in the enclosure so we can continue our journey.

We continue our descent towards Great Gaddesden. Just before arriving at the village, we climb one more hill bordered by rapeseed fields, like a stain of yellow in the middle of all this green.

Great Gaddesden to Beacon Hill

We arrive at Great Gaddesden. The village’s church, St John the Baptist, was built between 1180 and 1220 and has since been enlarged and restored multiple times.

We proceed with our climb until we reach a forested area and are so fortunate as the bluebells are in full bloom. As we emerge from the woods, we can, at last, enjoy a bit of a flat walk. But this is only for a short while as we restart climbing when approaching Clement’s End. We continue our climb and stop in a forested area halfway just before Dagnall. We sit there on a log thinking it was the ideal spot in light of the fact that after it will be a flat walk. Unfortunately for us, we continue ascending until we reach the pastures before the village of Dagnall. From there we start a steep descent all the way to the village.

We walk past the town and start our ascent towards Ivinghoe Beacon Hill, going across endless green fields, woods and encountering sheep on our way.

Before we reach the hill, we take a stroll through Coombe Wood, a stunning and dreamlike forest that makes you feel like you are trapped in some kind of fairy tale. No Little Red Riding Hood or rabbit hole taking you to wonderland, but if you are going on a clear day the light in the forest turns green. Maybe the Aliens?

Beacon Hill to the Grand Union Canal

We emerge from this surreal forest and start our ascent of the Ivinghoe Beacon. The hill, also classed as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, stands at 249 meters above sea level. Evidence of human activities found on the hill, such as burial mounds, dates back to the Bronze Age. Its windswept fields have been utilised for farming for centuries and the sheep and cattle you encounter today on the land are a continuation of this activity.

We find a section not too steep to get to the path on the ridge of the hill and follow it right to the top. It is so blustery up there that I need to hold my beenie with my two hands. I recommend that you carry with you a hairband or a Buff as opposed to a bennie so that it cannot fly away.

We start our descent appreciating the view from the ridge. But this is only a short relief, as we start climbing again. We then descent to Paul’s Knob only to climb Pitstone Hill right after, which is our last hill of this hike. As we come down the hill, we enter a forested area and follow the path all the way to the canal.

Walking down the Grand Union Canal

The Grand Union Canal stretches over 137 miles (220km) from Birmingham to London and counts 166 locks. It is the result of the amalgamation of several canals during 1894 and 1929  and came into place in its present structure on the 1st January 1929. It was then further extended in 1932 and is the longest combined canal in the UK.

We take a stroll on the undulating canal path for 4.20 miles (6.75 km), passing by houseboats and locks. We encounter a heron on one of the locks and a family of swans with adorable babies.

We arrive at a colourful bridge welcoming us to Berkhamstead. But it is time to leave and we cross over the bridge to get to the station. There is no pub stop at the end of this walk, simply a pack of crisps on one of the train station benches. Bon appetit!

The Berkhamsted Circular Walk Map

Looking for more walks in this area? Check the walking guides below.

Berkhamsted To Tring Canal Walk – Guide & Map

Wendover Circular: A Walk In The Chilterns AONB

Best Walks In The Chilterns: 9 Guides and Free Maps

Ashridge Bluebell Walk – Complete Guide & Map

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