Welcome to the picturesque Pangbourne Circular Walk, a scenic journey that unfolds in the charming village of Pangbourne, nestled in the heart of Berkshire. This delightful walk takes you through a landscape brimming with history, from ancient woodlands to lush green fields, and along the serene banks of the River Thames. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a casual stroller, this route offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, historical intrigue, and quaint village charm.
Join me as we embark on this circular walk, where every step tells a story and every turn reveals a new vista. Our adventure begins at the Pangbourne train station, just a stone’s throw from the bustling city of Reading, yet worlds apart in its tranquil setting.
Note: This walk was advertised as part of the Reading Walking Festival 2024 and I had the opportunity to lead it.
Logistics of the Pangbourne Circular
Distance: 5.8 miles (9.3 km)
Total Ascent: 433 ft (132 m)
Highest Point: 485 ft (148 m)
Lowest Point: 128 ft (39 m)
Walking Estimate: 2 hours and 30 minutes
Difficulty: Beginner but there is one hill
How to get there:
- Train from Paddington to Reading and change in Reading for a train to Pangbourne
- The journey takes between 40 to 50 minutes depending on the waiting time in Reading
- Alternatively, you can take the Elizabeth Line to Reading
For the Return:
- Train from Pangbourne Station to Reading and change in Reading for a train to London Paddington or the Elizabeth Line
What to Pack
- Comfortable clothing and footwear
- You are going through forested areas where the path can get muddy, a pair of gaiters is advisable
- A backpack with water and snacks
- Weather-appropriate gear such as sunglasses, headcover and sunscreen or rain gear depending on the forecast
Additional Information:
- There are toilets available at Reading Station
- There are toilets available at Pangbourne Station
- There are no public toilets available during the walk
- This is a dog-friendly walk
- This is a stile-free walk
Where to Eat
- The Greyhound, Whitchurch
Map of the Pangbourne Circular Walk
Do you want to do this walk? Download the GPS map for free by clicking on the button below. Learn how to upload it onto your navigation app by following my step-by-step guide here.
Highlights of the Pangbourne Circular
- Pangbourne
- St Mary the Virgin Church
- Whitchurch Toll Bridge
- Hartley Steps
Pangbourne Circular Walk
So now we covered the basics, let’s get to the walk!
Pangbourne
Our journey begins in Pangbourne, a quaint village nestled in Berkshire. First mentioned in historical records dating back to 844 under the name Pegingaburnan—which translates to “The Stream of the People of Paega”—Pangbourne has a rich and varied history. During Norman times, the village was linked to Reading Abbey, with its manor house serving as the residence of the abbot.
Pangbourne has been home to several notable figures, including Sir John Davis, an Elizabethan mathematician, and Kenneth Grahame, the beloved author of “The Wind in the Willows,” who spent his final years here. The village also houses significant memorials, such as the war memorial designed by Vera Waddington and the Falkland Islands Memorial Chapel at Pangbourne College, which was inaugurated by Queen Elizabeth II in March 2000.
Starting your walk, exit the train station and turn right onto Station Approach. Cross over Shooter’s Hill and take the alleyway directly ahead, which leads to the banks of the River Thames. Follow the towpath until you reach a bridge.
Whitchurch-on-Thames
Our walk takes us across a notable landmark—the Whitchurch Toll Bridge. Constructed in 1792 by local residents, this bridge is still operational today, though it has undergone three significant restorations since its original construction. The most recent restoration in 2014 returned the bridge to its initial design, featuring a striking white-painted structure.
The toll for the bridge is 60p, or 45p for frequent users, but it’s free for pedestrians, cyclists, and motorcyclists. After crossing the toll bridge, turn right onto a tarmac path clearly marked “Thames Path and Footpath to the Church.” Following the signs, we soon come upon St Mary the Virgin Church. Founded in the 9th Century by early Christian Saxons from Hwitcurke, the church was expanded in the eleventh century and served the parish through the Middle Ages. It was seized by Henry VIII during the Reformation in the sixteenth century, though worship was allowed to continue. The building underwent modifications again in 1857 and 1901.
Leaving the footpath, you’ll return to High Street. As you proceed up the road towards Hartslock Bridleway, the sidewalk ends, requiring you to walk on the road until you reach the bridleway.
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Hartslock Bridleway
At first glance, the Hartslock Bridleway might seem like any other path, but its history sets it apart. Originally known as The Tuddingway in the thirteenth century, this bridleway has long been a vital passageway. As you reach an intersection, where the tarmac road curves to your left, you’ll face a staircase with a compelling backstory.
These steps were constructed in 1993 to improve access for walkers and horse riders on the steep slope of the Harslock Bridleway. When the path was incorporated into the Thames Path in 1996, visitor traffic increased significantly. By 2011, however, the steps had deteriorated and were removed by the council, leading to numerous accidents among walkers and cyclists and making the area somewhat notorious. The community’s response was led by a local resident, Eric Hartley, who spearheaded a 16-month campaign to restore them. Following a serious incident on the slope, the campaign successfully culminated in the installation of new steps and a handrail. In recognition of this effort, the staircase was aptly named the Hartley Steps.
Hartslock Nature Reserve
In May 1912, Charles Rothschild, a banker and accomplished naturalist, laid the groundwork for what would eventually become the Wildlife Trusts. His mission was to identify and protect critical wildlife habitats. Rothschild considered including Hartslock Wood and its surrounding areas in his network of nature reserves, but the onset of WWI halted these plans, leaving the habitat unprotected. It wasn’t until 1975 that local residents banded together to establish the area as a nature reserve.
Covering 4 hectares, this reserve is particularly notable for harbouring a rare hybrid orchid, a cross between the monkey orchid and the lady orchid. This site is the only location in England where this unique hybrid is found.
Our walk takes us through this nature reserve, moving away from the River Thames bank and the woodland, across the fields. We ascend the first hill of our journey, where a welcoming bench at the summit offers a perfect spot for a rest. Take a moment to catch your breath and enjoy the expansive view over the valley and a glimpse of a railway bridge arching majestically over the River Thames.
Related Content: Marlow to Henley Walk
The Chiltern Way
Once refreshed, it’s time to resume our journey. From the bench, make your way down to the gate and turn right onto a secluded footpath nestled between dense shrubs. The path eventually leads you to a working farm. Here, you’ll turn left onto a country road. Note that there isn’t any pavement, so you’ll be sharing the road with occasional vehicles. However, traffic is sparse in this serene area, allowing you often to safely enjoy the charming experience of walking down the centre of the road.
At this point, our route intersects with the Chiltern Way, an extensive 177-mile loop that encircles the Chiltern Hills, starting and finishing in Hemel Hempstead. This path is divided into 15 manageable day walks, providing ample exploration opportunities. We’ll follow this trail for about 1.35 km, leading us towards Coombe Farm, where the landscape opens up to reveal fields and the quintessential English countryside.
The Way Back
As we close our loop, we make our way back towards Whitchurch, passing through the pastoral landscape of Coombe Farm. As we arrive near the main house, we veer left onto a path, soon encountering a quaint kissing gate marked by a signpost. This gate is a portal from one verdant field to another, leading us toward the leafy enclave of Beech Wood.
Did you know? The Chilterns boast the largest concentration of beech woods in the country, and we have just traversed one of these stunning examples!
Beyond Beech Wood, we approach a cow farm. While the cows graze peacefully, we continue along a footpath running parallel to the fence, sparing us the need to cross through the fields. This path provides one last pastoral view before meeting the B471, signalling our return to civilization and the nearing end of our journey.
Strolling down the B471, we soon reach a war memorial. Here, the pavement ends, and we cross to continue towards Whitchurch. A short walk from here brings us back to the village, where you can retrace your steps to the station.
If you’re not quite ready to leave, consider extending your visit with a stop at the Greyhound. This quintessential British pub, complete with a spacious beer garden, is perfect for groups and especially welcoming to muddy hikers. While they primarily serve drinks, a food truck is available, offering pizzas on Saturdays from 4:30 pm and shawarmas on Sundays from 12:00 pm.
Bon appetit!
Final Thoughts on the Pangbourne Circular Walk
As we conclude our tour of the Pangbourne Circular Walk, we’ve traversed historic bridges, navigated ancient paths, and explored vibrant natural habitats unique to Berkshire. This walk showcases the rich history of Pangbourne and its surrounding areas, from medieval churches to 20th-century memorials, blending seamlessly with the natural beauty of the Chilterns. We hope this guide enhances your next visit to this charming part of England, whether you’re enjoying the scenic views, the wildlife, or the local hospitality at the village’s welcoming pub.
And you, where is your favourite walk in Berkshire? Let me know in the comments below.
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